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Shima Onsen Toshimaya
四万温泉 豊島屋
Foto de la zona, no del ryokan · The Shima River at Shima Onsen, Gunma · Kentaro Ohno / CC BY 2.0
A 15-room riverside inn whose every bath — shared, private and in eight of the rooms — runs on its own springs with no water added, no heating and no recirculation; the catch is no lift, a modest dinner for the price and signs of thin staffing
Toshimaya has run as an onsen inn in Shima since the Edo period, according to the village's tourism portal, and today it's a compact 15-room house built right over the Shima river. The draw is the water: the inn owns three springs, and its main source rises on site at about 60°C and 200 litres a minute. Instead of adding cold water, the inn cools it through a heat exchanger chilled with mountain water, then lets it flow through every tub without heating or recirculation, draining them daily — it says it's the only inn in Shima where all baths work this way. Eight rooms have their own spring-fed bath, and there are riverside open-air baths and two bookable private baths. Japanese guests rate it 4.5 across 759 reviews on one major site (baths 4.6, dinner 4.3) and 4.51 across 977 on another (baths 4.66, facilities 4.30). Most recent evidence comes from these booking-site reviews; two 2024 blogs, one written in February snow, back them up. Guests in 2026 praise the sound of the river from bath and room, the fresh water, home-grown rice and attentive staff. The complaints repeat: no lift and steep stairs to the basement baths, a satoyama kaiseki some find plain for the price (pork rather than beef, river fish rather than tuna), small shared baths, insects in summer and, in 2024–2025, signs of a short-staffed front desk. Two-meal stays run about ¥19,000–30,000+ per person on 2026 reviews.
Guía para elegir habitación
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River-view rooms with their own open-air bath — Kikyō (桔梗), Tsuwabuki (石蕗), Tsubaki (椿), Fukujusō (福寿草) or the special room Hagi (萩)
All have an open-air bath on 100% free-flowing spring water facing the river: Kikyō, Tsuwabuki and Tsubaki are 10-tatami rooms on the third and fourth floors, Fukujusō is 12.5 tatami on the ground floor, and Hagi adds tatami-base twin beds and a living area. An August 2024 booking-site guest in one of the Kikyō-type rooms called its river-view bath 'the best' (while finding dinner underwhelming), an October 2025 guest was equally happy, and a February 2026 reviewer had booked a similar room five times in over ten years.
Mansaku (万作) and Rindō (りんどう), with a small terrace bath
10-tatami river-side rooms on the ground floor, the closest to the shared baths, with a compact ceramic spring-water tub on a wooden terrace. A blogger who stayed in Mansaku (posted June 2024) enjoyed the river view from the room, and repeat guests booked it again in August 2026. A 2021 travelogue from Rindō noted that looking down from the terrace you mostly see roofs.
Mejor evitar
Shirayuri (白百合) and Hōzuki (ほうずき), the town-side rooms in the wooden wing
The inn itself says these 8-tatami rooms face the old street rather than the river and are less soundproof than rooms in the concrete wing. Yamabuki (山吹) is a compact 6-tatami room. Only rooms listed with a bath have one; Sankirai (山帰来, renovated May 2023) and Hō (朴, January 2023) have twin beds. There's no lift, so upper-floor rooms mean stairs.
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La cocina a fondo
Consenso sobre el desayuno
4.4/5A Japanese breakfast of kama-cooked, sun-dried local rice, a vegetable-heavy miso soup, home-made tofu and the inn's own salted iwana char — one of the best-liked parts of a stay; bloggers in 2024 and reviewers in 2026 single out the miso soup and the rice
Book a private bath when you check in: the cave-like Ōiwa-buro with its riverside open-air area costs ¥3,000 for 60 minutes and the Chashitsu-buro ¥2,000, and some booking-site plans include one free. The shared baths swap at 22:00, so you can try both sides. Fill a bottle at the drinking fountain by the baths. A ¥500 tasting set of Gunma sake made for the inn goes well with dinner.
Claves de la cena
4.2/5The standard is the 11-course 'satoyama kaiseki' from home-grown vegetables and home-made seasonings — opening with a home-made fruit liqueur, with carp and venison sashimi and Jōshū barley pork — or upgrade to the 14-course tokusen kaiseki or a Jōshū beef steak course; the smaller Hanakago gozen is served all at once. Meals are in semi-private booths, a private room (¥2,000 extra per person) or, on some plans, in your room. Fans in 2024–2026 praised gibier without gaminess and boar soup; critics in 2024 and 2026 found the main dishes plain for ¥30,000 a person, the seasoning light, and missed premium ingredients.
Onsen y bienestar: la realidad
The inn's own sodium-calcium chloride-sulfate spring (weakly alkaline, about 60–62°C, 200 litres a minute, rising naturally on site), from three inn-owned sources. Cooled with a heat exchanger rather than added water, then 100% free-flowing in every bath — no heating, no added water, no recirculation — with tubs refilled daily.
Two shared bath sets — the Yakuō-no-yu indoor baths and the riverside open-air baths Zuiun and Reihō, where the river runs almost within reach — swap between men and women at 22:00 (open 15:00–9:30). They're small, with about three washing stations, but often empty on weekdays. Two private baths, Ōiwa-buro next to the main baths and Chashitsu-buro on a guest floor, are booked in 60-minute slots, with bathing wear for rent. Eight rooms have their own spring-water bath. No day bathing.
No policy found on the official site or Japanese booking sites — contact the inn. Private baths and in-room baths are available.
Advertencias y matices locales
- 01
Check-in 15:00, check-out 10:00. The inn doesn't accept day-trip bathers.
- 02
There is no lift: rooms and the basement baths are reached by stairs, and the inn says it isn't suited to older guests or anyone with limited mobility. 2026 reviewers mention the stairs as hard going.
- 03
Drivers stop at the entrance and staff move the car to the inn's open-air lot; the road there is steep with tight bends, so low or wide cars use the shared Shima Onsen car park — call ahead.
- 04
Babies and children are welcome, with baby-bath gear in the baths, baby plans with in-room meals and free baby food; families in 2026 also reported insects in rooms and room baths in summer.
- 05
Several booking-site guests in 2024–2026 described signs of thin staffing — a dark, unattended lobby before check-in, missing slippers and a towel shortfall — while praising the staff who were there.
Antes de tu estancia
Recuerdos de Shima Onsen y ayuda práctica para tu viaje.
Recuerdos de Shima Onsen en Rakuten
Precios de Rakuten a 21 oct 2026: consulta la tienda para ver el precio y la disponibilidad actuales. Supported by Rakuten Developers Los enlaces de Rakuten son de afiliado: podemos recibir una comisión sin coste adicional para ti.
Fuentes
Los blogs y crónicas de estancia reales en los que se basa este artículo
Aparece en nuestras guías
Comparativas que incluyen este ryokan.
Créditos de las fotos
- Sekizenkan — the Honkan and the red Keiun Bridge, Shima Onsen · Kentaro Ohno / CC BY 2.0
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Créditos de las fotos: The Shima River at Shima Onsen, Gunma · Kentaro Ohno / CC BY 2.0 / Sekizenkan — the Honkan and the red Keiun Bridge, Shima Onsen · Kentaro Ohno / CC BY 2.0 / Utsukushigahara plateau, above Matsumoto · MitsunoriEgawa / CC BY 4.0 / The Oirase stream, Towada, Aomori · MaedaAkihiko / CC BY-SA 4.0
Shima Onsen Toshimaya
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