Yamanaka Onsen Yubatake no Yado Hanatsubaki
山中温泉 湯畑の宿 花つばき
Area photo — not the ryokan itself · Sōyu public bath, Yamashiro Onsen · 掬茶 / CC BY-SA 4.0
A 48-room value inn at the far end of Yamanaka Onsen, built around the Yubatake — a terrace of mixed-bathing riverside tubs worn with bathing robes — but 2025–2026 guests found the tubs too cool or too hot, part of it shut for works, and 65 steps to climb
Hanatsubaki is a 48-room inn at the far end of Yamanaka Onsen beside the Shinsenkyō gorge, and its reason for being is the Yubatake: fifteen small tubs fed by the inn's own spring and stepped down the riverbank like terraced fields, 65 steps below the lobby. Everyone wears the inn's bathing robes, so couples, families and friends bathe together. Bloggers who stayed in Golden Week 2022 and in May 2026 had it to themselves and loved the river sound; another, walking in from Fukui in July 2026, enjoyed the empty indoor bath, the kaiseki and a 12.5-tatami room that felt almost too big for one. Japanese guests rate it 4.0 on two major sites — 156 reviews on one, 146 on the other — with dinner (4.17–4.2) and breakfast (4.11–4.3) scoring best and the baths lowest (3.6–3.92). The praise is consistent: big, renovated rooms with futons already laid, freshly fried tempura and hōba-yaki at dinners served in a dining hall rather than a buffet, and kind staff who'll drive you into town. The complaints centre on the Yubatake itself. In December 2025 the hottest tub was below body temperature while the 'cold' one was scalding, the lift down to it was closed and part of it was under construction; in summer 2026 the women-only section was still closed with no reopening date. Others mention ageing equipment, insects and stink bugs in the hinoki-bath rooms, hair left in a room and smoke drifting from the entrance. The inn's standard two-meal plan starts at ¥17,710 per person (¥24,310 with a hinoki bath); reviewers paid ¥13,000–28,000.
Room Selection Guide
What the guests who stayed here actually recommendRecommended
Standard Japanese rooms (12.5 tatami), or the version with an extra side room
The inn's 44 standard rooms all have a bath and toilet, and futons are laid before you arrive. Reviewers in 2025–2026 found them surprisingly large and recently renovated; a friends' group in November 2025 liked the two washbasins, and a family at the 2025 year-end had an extra small room. The side-room type is sometimes offered as a free upgrade on the inn's own site.
Rooms with a hinoki semi-open-air bath (4 rooms)
A cypress tub on a balcony facing the gorge — a family of four in August 2026 and solo travellers in March and May 2026 loved them, and the inn says they book out first on holidays. Note the bath is plain tap water, not hot-spring water, and you fill it yourself.
Request To Avoid
Hinoki-bath rooms if you dislike insects; any room if you need a quiet, modern finish
A February 2026 guest found small insects swarming the balcony bath's light at night and getting indoors, and a November 2025 guest found stink bugs on the balcony ceiling. Other 2026 reviewers mention a very loud toilet fan, no hair dryer, an in-room guide that didn't match the front desk's, and in August 2026 a room 'covered in hair'.
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Dining Deep Dive
Breakfast Consensus
4.2/5A Japanese set breakfast in the dining hall (7:30–9:00) — consistently rated, with one July 2026 guest singling out the hot miso soup after an early walk
Book the free shuttle from Kaga Onsen Station (14:30 or 15:30) by the day before; the front desk will also drive you to the Yuge Kaidō street free on request. There's nowhere to eat late, the shop closes early and an October 2025 guest found no alcohol in the vending machines, so buy drinks on the way. Bring ¥100 coins for the Yubatake lockers.
Dinner Insights
4.2/5Seasonal kaiseki in a dining hall or banquet room from 18:00, built on Kaga vegetables and fish from Hashidate and Shioya ports, with crab plans in winter. Reviewers praise dishes served hot, freshly fried prawn tempura, hōba-yaki, a wagyu-loin main, the head chef's own burdock pickles and, in 2022, a kamameshi rice pot with a three-sake tasting set. Allergies can only be handled for prawn and crab, with three days' notice.
Onsen & Wellness Realities
The inn's own spring. Booking sites list it as an alkaline simple spring; a hot-spring specialist writing in 2025 describes a calcium-sulphate spring at 28.5°C, recirculated in the indoor baths and free-flowing in the Yubatake, where some tubs are heated and others take the spring as it comes out.
The Yubatake (15:00–23:00 and 6:00–10:00) is mixed bathing in the inn's bathing robes; adult sizes only, so bring swimwear for children. It's 65 stone steps down, closes in bad weather and is lit up at night (a November 2025 guest called it a night pool). Expect lukewarm long-soak tubs, two cold pools and one hot tub; several winter guests got cold. The women-only Yubatake section is closed for construction with no reopening date given. Indoor baths with a sauna are on another floor (15:00–24:00, 5:00–10:00), so you change twice. The inn also lists paid open-air baths. No free private baths.
No policy found on the official site or Japanese booking sites — contact the inn.
Local Warnings & Nuances
- 01
Check-in 15:00, check-out 10:00; dinner 18:00–21:00, breakfast 7:30–9:00. Cancellation: 50% from 3 days before, 80% the day before, 100% on the day (one booking site's terms).
- 02
Mixed bathing is the main event: with the women-only Yubatake section closed, anyone uneasy about mixed bathing in robes is left with the indoor baths — a solo traveller in July 2026 skipped the Yubatake for that reason.
- 03
The Yubatake's tub temperatures vary widely and it has had breakdowns: in December 2025 the lift down was shut and staff told a guest that equipment faults have been common since the earthquake. Ask about its status before booking.
- 04
Not easy for older or less mobile guests: 65 steps to the Yubatake and separate floors for the indoor baths. Two wheelchairs can be borrowed.
- 05
Children are welcome, but a child sharing a room with one adult pays the adult rate on one booking site. Bath tax ¥150 per person is extra. There is a smoking area by the entrance.
Sources
The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on
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Photo credits: Sōyu public bath, Yamashiro Onsen · 掬茶 / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Hōshi — the entrance and garden pines, Awazu Onsen · 663highland / CC BY-SA 4.0
Yamanaka Onsen Yubatake no Yado Hanatsubaki
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