Ryokan in Shirahama

Both reviewed inns are large houses in Shirahama Onsen, Wakayama, and each draws on two different springs, but they offer very different stays by the Pacific. Kishu Shirahama Onsen Musashi is in the middle of town, opposite the Shirahama bus centre and a minute's walk from the white sand of Shirarahama beach, about 10 minutes by bus or taxi from JR Shirahama Station. Hamachidori no Yu Kaishu, run by Kyoritsu Resort, the group behind the Dormy Inn hotels, stands on a headland above the Pacific with 109 rooms, a rose garden and a sunset lookout, three minutes' walk from the Kusahara-no-yu bus stop.

Musashi (classic) suits families and beachgoers: 148 Japanese-style rooms, a buffet with steak and tempura cooked to order and plenty of choice for children, free children's yukata and baby goods, and outdoor showers and float pumps for swimmers; book the top-floor Nagitei rooms for the sea view and the rooftop bath Tenkū. Its shared open-air bath has no sea view, the two private baths cost ¥3,300 for 45 minutes, and reviewers mention a crowded buffet, slow check-in in summer, uneven staff, a dated feel and no toothbrush in the room; buffet stays run about ¥15,700–33,400 per person. Kaishu (classic) suits those who come for the baths: free-flowing main baths with water added, three free private open-air baths down the cliff and a mixed bath at the water's edge entered in a bathing wrap, plus a funamori sashimi kaiseki, free lounge drinks until 17:00 and late-night ramen. Only the ten Hamaya cottages have spring water in the room bath (the rest are heated plain water), guests with tattoos are asked to use the private baths, and 2026 reviews describe crowds, slow and uneven service, mould in some rooms and people staring in the mixed bath; two-meal stays run about ¥22,000–50,000 per person.