HOSHINOYA Karuizawa
星のや軽井沢
Area photo — not the ryokan itself · Kumoba Pond in autumn, Karuizawa, Nagano · Hiroaki Kaneko / CC BY-SA 3.0
Hoshino Resorts' flagship: a car-free village of rooms around a river, with no TVs, a light-and-dark Meditation Bath and seasonal Shinshu kaiseki — deeply restful, but meals cost extra and value is the sore point
HOSHINOYA Karuizawa is where Hoshino Resorts began: the family's hot-spring inn of 1914 was rebuilt in 2005 as the first Hoshinoya, a 'village in a valley' of 77 rooms set along terraced water channels. Staff drive you to your room in a small EV, rooms have no TV and are warmed by geothermal floor heating, and only guests and staff are allowed inside. Japanese guests praise the stillness — 'quiet rooms' and 'a calm atmosphere' are among the most-tagged comments on one review map, where it scores 4.24 across 83 reviews — as well as the river-side Mizunami rooms, the Meditation Bath with its 'room of light' and 'room of darkness', and seasonal kaiseki at the Kasuke restaurant (a 2024 guest's first matsutake of the year; a 2026 guest's venison fried in cherry leaves). Free drinks at the library and terrace lounges add to the ease. The recurring doubt is price: rooms are sold without meals by default, dinner at Kasuke is ¥21,780 per adult, and bloggers' bills run from ¥177,016 for two nights room-only (a family of four) to about ¥250,000 for one night for two with meals. Several reviewers call the value poor or the service assembly-line, the Mountain Alley rooms have steep stairs and no lift, and the public Hoshino area outside — Harunire Terrace and the Tombo-no-yu spa — gets crowded. One-night bookings open only 30 days ahead.
Room Selection Guide
What the guests who stayed here actually recommendRecommended
Mizunami (水波の部屋) — the water-side rooms
The default recommendation: 57–68㎡ rooms facing the river through the centre of the village, with a terrace where wild ducks swim past. A 2024 guest paid about ¥250,000 for one night with dinner and breakfast and found nothing to be disappointed by; a 2023 blogger in a second-floor triple praised the wide balcony and view. Warm even in sub-zero January thanks to floor heating. Specific rooms can't be requested.
Niwa-roji (庭路地の部屋) — garden-lane houses, including the dog rooms
The largest type (48–81㎡), in houses linked by garden lanes. The dog rooms are here, with tiled floors; a 2025 guest with their dog loved the stay but not the price, and a 2021 guest found the views limited but the resort the most dog-friendly of any Hoshino property.
Request To Avoid
Yama-roji (山路地の部屋) — the Mountain Alley rooms, especially with mobility issues
The entry category (44–67㎡). A March 2026 guest on the top floor wrote 'there's no lift, of course, and the stairs are steep — the complete opposite of barrier-free'; a 2023 reviewer said the upstairs rooms don't suit older guests or small children. Ground-floor rooms have little view, and the upper-floor view looks over the Mizunami rooms. Rooms have a wooden tub, but we found no confirmation that it's filled with onsen water.
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Dining Deep Dive
Breakfast Consensus
4.2/5The 'mountain breakfast' at Kasuke (¥4,235) — a soy-milk tofu hotpot, fluffy rolled omelette — or a Japanese or Western breakfast in your room at the same price; one 2026 guest found it 'fairly orthodox'
Book dinner when you book the room — Kasuke and in-room dining fill up, and a 2021 guest got no reminder and ended up queueing in the Hoshino area. Bathe at Tombo-no-yu in the guests-only hour, 9:00–10:00, before day visitors arrive.
Dinner Insights
4.3/5Rooms are sold without meals by default. Kasuke serves a seasonal 'mountain kaiseki' or beef shabu-shabu from 17:30 (¥21,780 per adult including service; a vegetarian kaiseki with five days' notice). Bloggers describe first-of-season matsutake and chestnuts, carp sashimi from the resort's own tanks, venison fried in cherry leaves and rice with sakura shrimp. In-room dinners come in stacked boxes or as a hotpot and are generous. The cheaper Sonmin Shokudo (¥9,800) is outside in the public Hoshino area. Critics call the food ordinary for the price, and one 2021 reviewer wrote that the value was 'extremely poor'.
Onsen & Wellness Realities
Hoshino Onsen, a simple alkaline spring opened in 1915, described officially as free-flowing. (One booking site lists it as a heated bicarbonate spring.)
The Meditation Bath inside the resort is for guests only (15:00–10:00, entered by code): you walk through a dark water passage from a 'room of light' to a 'room of darkness', with a sauna of about 70°C, a cold plunge and a terrace. Most guests love it; one found it dark and scary. Tombo-no-yu, the public day spa in the Hoshino area (10:00–22:00, ¥1,350–1,550), has indoor and outdoor baths and a sauna; bloggers say Hoshinoya guests bathe free, and 9:00–10:00 is for them alone. It's crowded at night. Rooms have their own wooden tub.
Tombo-no-yu refuses tattoos unless covered with up to eight of its cover stickers (10×8cm, sold at reception). Hoshino Resorts' group policy, linked from the Meditation Bath, doesn't bar tattoos outright but lets staff refuse the large bath if other guests might feel afraid.
Local Warnings & Nuances
- 01
Getting there: Tokyo to Karuizawa is 80 minutes by Hokuriku Shinkansen. The official Japanese page lists a free, reservation-only shuttle from Naka-Karuizawa Station (south exit), five minutes on from Karuizawa by the Shinano Railway; earlier guests were picked up at Karuizawa Station, so check when booking. Taxi from Karuizawa Station about 15 minutes; summer traffic can make it much longer.
- 02
Check-in 15:00, check-out 12:00.
- 03
One-night stays can be booked only from 30 days ahead; before that, only stays of two nights or more.
- 04
Not barrier-free: many rooms have steep stairs and no lift. Tell the resort in advance if you have mobility needs.
- 05
Pets are welcome in the dog rooms. Popular activities (firefly and flying-squirrel tours) can be full on arrival — book ahead.
Sources
The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on
- 「星のや軽井沢」に泊まったら思ってたんと違った件【旅行記#2】 (note, 海原こうめ)
- 【2024 宿泊&旅行記 vol.1】軽井沢① 星のや軽井沢編 (note, cherichan)
- #31_星野リゾートに、ともだちと泊まってみた。〜星のや軽井沢〜 (note, OLのミカ。)
- 星のや軽井沢 旅行費用 (共働き子育て30代夫婦の日常)
- 星のや軽井沢の水波の部屋|2階のトリプルの客室に宿泊しました (KANAMARI)
- 星野リゾート"星のや軽井沢"滞在ブログ!! 『インルーム夕食』レポート (ぐるめぐり)
- 2026年3月 星のやに泊まる軽井沢 (4travel.jp)
- 星のや軽井沢 クチコミ (Yahoo!マップ)
- 星のや軽井沢 (公式サイト)
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Photo credits: Hiiragiya — the frontage on Anekoji-dori, Kyoto · Mariemon / CC BY 3.0 / Mukaitaki in the snow, Higashiyama Onsen, Aizu-Wakamatsu · Fumihiko Ueno / CC BY 3.0 / Mikiya — the wooden main building, Kinosaki · Ippukucho / CC BY 3.0
HOSHINOYA Karuizawa
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