Yumura Onsen Tomiya
湯村温泉 とみや
Area photo — not the ryokan itself · The Arayu spring at Yumura Onsen, Hyogo · KishujiRapid / CC BY-SA 4.0
A seafood wholesaler's inn on the hill above Yumura, with its own free-flowing hot-spring source, a woodland open-air bath and fish-heavy dinners few people finish, at modest prices. The catch: a tired Shōwa-era building with smells, insects and almost no extras
Tomiya is a hillside inn above Yumura Onsen, founded in 1930. It closed during the pandemic in 2020 and reopened on 20 October 2021 under the Maruwa Watanabe Suisan group, a seafood company from nearby Hamasaka port that also runs the Totoya inns. That ownership explains the appeal: guests come for big, fish-heavy dinners at mid-range prices, and for the inn's own hot-spring source, which feeds the large baths and the taps in the room baths. Japanese guests rate it 4.4 across 108 Jalan reviews (dinner 4.8, bath 4.6, room 3.9), 4.34 across 637 on Rakuten Travel (dinner 4.53, facilities 3.90) and 4.20 across 89 on Ikyu (food 4.60, facilities 3.65). Four independent stay write-ups from July 2023 to February 2026 agree with the 2026 reviews. Dinner brings sashimi platters 'too much for one person', Tottori wagyu shabu-shabu, a seafood hotplate and, in season, a whole snow crab, all served at tables in a banquet hall. Light eaters are warned. The two large baths swap daily. Tenjin no Yu is a separate bath house with a roofed rock pool in the woods; Atago no Yu is smaller. Both are listed as free-flowing, with water added to cool the hot source. The catch is the building. Reviewers call it old and Shōwa-era, and between October 2025 and October 2026 they reported musty or drain smells, cracked bath tiles, a broken air conditioner, cobwebs, and stink bugs in autumn. Service is warm but pared back: one October 2026 guest felt the inn puts everything into food and upkeep rather than extras. The basic two-meal plan costs about ¥15,000–18,000 per person; the popular seafood and crab plans run about ¥25,000–48,000.
Room Selection Guide
What the guests who stayed here actually recommendRecommended
Rooms with a source-fed open-air bath (源泉露天風呂付12畳/16畳和室), or the 66㎡ Japanese-Western Superior (源泉露天風呂付和洋室スーペリア) on the fifth floor
The Superior pairs a 10-tatami room with a twin bedroom and a ceramic outdoor tub. A September 2026 Ikyu guest in a 12-tatami open-air room found the tub bigger than the photos, with room for two to stretch out, and loved the water pouring in nonstop. An August 2026 guest in the 16-tatami room, on a third summer visit in a row, asked staff whether it was really fine to let so much run. A July 2023 blogger found the ceramic tub large, source-fed and hot enough that you add cold water, with a thermometer to help. Downsides: these tubs have no washing area, a July 2026 guest found the rest-area tatami worn and the decking loose underfoot, and an October 2025 guest in the Superior found stink bugs swarming the tub and the room. On Ikyu, the basic two-meal plan for two costs ¥46,600 (12 tatami), ¥52,000 (16 tatami) or ¥62,600 (Superior).
'Tsuki no Akari' (月のあかり), a 12-tatami room with a semi-double bed and what used to be a private open-air bath
A May 2024 blogger listed Tsuki no Akari as one of the inn's two private open-air baths, and Ikyu's listing says the private bath was designed by a well-known designer featured on the TV documentary Jōnetsu Tairiku. Rakuten now sells it as a guest room with that open-air bath. An October 2026 Jalan reviewer loved having a tub big enough for four or five adults all to themselves, whenever they liked. A July 2026 Rakuten guest found the tub very large but the changing room smelled. On Rakuten, the basic two-meal plan costs ¥21,300–25,300 per person for two.
Request To Avoid
Bath-less 'omakase' rooms (おまかせ和室, single or semi-double), the 9-tatami room, and anyone sensitive to smells
The omakase rooms sold on weekday business plans have a toilet but no bath or shower. Several 2026 solo guests were happy to use the large baths instead, and the food on that plan is just as generous. The 9-tatami room has no Wi-Fi and a toilet without a bidet seat, according to Rakuten. In the 10-tatami 'double', a May 2024 blogger found a semi-double bed made up with single-size bedding. 2026 reviews of standard rooms mention a musty smell in a mountain-side room (September), a broken air conditioner that was fixed quickly (October), cobwebs in a toilet (August), a room-bath tap slow to fill (July), and lights that can only be switched off from outside the room (September).
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Dining Deep Dive
Breakfast Consensus
4.2/5A Japanese set breakfast in the same banquet hall, with start times from 7:00 to 8:30. It scores 4.5 on Jalan and 4.35 on Rakuten, and reviewers praise the salmon, squid sashimi and good rice. A July 2023 blogger, though, found it 'quite ordinary' and the fish cold.
Free morning coffee is served in the lounge beside the lobby, and there's a foot bath on the balcony and a retro games console in the rest room. Arrive early to explore: a September 2026 guest was allowed to leave the car before check-in and walk down to the Arayu spring, where you can boil eggs. At dinner, rice and miso soup are brought when you ask for them, so ask early (a September 2026 guest only got them once already full). Bikers get covered parking. Birthday cakes can be ordered for a fee four days ahead (not for Wednesdays).
Dinner Insights
4.6/5Kaiseki at tables in the second-floor banquet halls, with seatings from about 18:00 (a 2024 blogger could choose 17:45–19:00; Ikyu now lists 18:00 or 18:30). The basic 'Shiki no Wa-kaiseki' includes five kinds of sashimi, Tottori wagyu shabu-shabu, a seafood hotplate and tempura. The inn's most popular plan, the 'Tomiya Kaisen Kaiseki', gives each person a boat of seven kinds of sashimi. Autumn–winter plans add one or two snow crabs, and summer plans feature white squid. On the cheapest plan in May 2024, a solo blogger had a four-kind sashimi platter, simmered Hamasaka flounder, beef shabu-shabu and a seafood hotplate, and called it plenty; local Kasumitsuru cold sake cost ¥1,400. A November 2025 blogger couldn't finish a whole snow crab plus shabu-shabu. Guests staying two nights say the menu changes on the second. Critics: most dishes are laid out in advance, so in August 2026 the sashimi had dried out by a late seating and the tempura prawns disappointed; others found the seafood not very fresh in June 2026 and October 2025. Tell the inn about allergies five days ahead.
Onsen & Wellness Realities
The inn's own source: a sodium chloride–hydrogen carbonate and sulphate spring, pH 7.3, sold as a smooth, skin-softening 'beauty bath'. Jalan lists it as free-flowing with water added to cool it, and the inn says spring water reaches every room's bath and washbasin. A July 2023 blogger found the in-room tub free-flowing but hot enough to need cold water. A July 2026 guest suspected heavy dilution and felt little character in the water, and a September 2026 guest noted the old-style showers in the second-floor bath were hard to adjust.
Two bath complexes swap between men and women overnight; hours are 15:00–23:00 and 6:00–9:00. Tenjin no Yu sits in its own building, reached by stepping outside onto a covered walkway. It has an indoor bath, a cascade bath (utaseyu) and a roofed rock pool in the woods, with a second open-air pool down a small stream path (May 2024). Atago no Yu, on the lobby floor, has a larger and a smaller side, each with a rock open-air bath. Yukoyuko lists two private open-air baths, Tsuki no Akari and Yuki no Shizuku, at ¥2,200 for 45 minutes, booked at the front desk on the day. Tsuki no Akari is now sold as a guest room, so ask whether Yuki no Shizuku is available. There's no sauna. Guests love the size and the forest setting, but one September 2026 reviewer missed a ledge to sit on.
No policy found on the official site or Japanese booking sites — contact the inn.
Local Warnings & Nuances
- 01
Check-in is 15:00–18:00: guests on two-meal plans must arrive by 18:00, and bookings may be cancelled if you're three hours late without calling. Check-out is 10:00, the doors close at 23:00, and bathing tax is ¥150 per person.
- 02
Cancellation: 30% from three days before, 50% from two days, 70% the day before and 100% on the day.
- 03
Access: take the bus from JR Hamasaka Station to Yumura Onsen (about 20 minutes), or drive about 45 minutes along Route 9 from Yōka-Hyōnosen IC. Parking is free for 25 cars. The entrance is at basement level with the front desk one floor up (a lift is available). The large baths have several steps at the entrance and into the tubs, and a September 2026 guest found the small steps along the long corridor to the bath easy to miss.
- 04
Expect an old building and pared-back service. Futons are laid out before you arrive. Guests describe a small team, worn tatami in the dining hall (July 2026) and a cold stay in January 2026. A July 2026 guest felt it was good value only with a discount coupon.
- 05
Children are welcome: older primary-school children pay the adult rate and eat the adult dinner, while younger children pay 70% and get a children's plate. All rooms are non-smoking (there's a smoking area outside), and pets are not allowed.
Before your stay
Souvenirs from Yumura Onsen and practical help for your trip.
Yumura Onsen souvenirs on Rakuten
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Sources
The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on
- 湯村温泉 とみや（湯村温泉、兵庫県美方郡新温泉町）＜悠久の旅人・日本の宿File No.299＞ (2024年5月宿泊)
- ひとりで湯ったり温泉旅。慣らし運転をかねて湯村温泉へ。 (フォートラベル, 2023年7月)
- ずわい蟹と湯村温泉と但馬牛 (フォートラベル, 2025年11月)
- 皆生温泉、湯村温泉 冬の温泉と絶景を楽しむ旅行 (フォートラベル, 2026年2月)
- 湯村温泉とみやのクチコミ・評判一覧 (じゃらんnet)
- 湯村温泉 とみや クチコミ・お客さまの声 (楽天トラベル)
- 湯村温泉 自家源泉のお宿 とみや クチコミ・評判 (一休.com)
- 湯村温泉 自家源泉のお宿 とみや 「とみや四季の和会席」プラン・源泉露天風呂付和洋室スーペリア (一休.com)
- 湯村温泉とみや お風呂 (ゆこゆこ)
- 湯村温泉 とみや : 渡辺水産グループ 湯村温泉 とみやオフィシャルページ
More Consensus Reports
Area photoYumura OnsenClassic
Yu, Shin'onsen-chō, Mikata District, northern Hyōgo — a castle-like building two minutes' walk from the Yumura Onsen bus stop and a few minutes from the steaming Arayu spring; about 25 minutes by town bus from JR Hamasaka Station, about 3 hours by express bus from Osaka-Umeda, and about 45 minutes by car from Yōka-Hyōnosen IC
10 sources
Yumura Onsen Asanoya
湯村温泉 朝野家
A big, old-school Yumura inn loved for handmade monthly kaiseki in private dining rooms, Tajima beef and Hamasaka crab, and 98°C spring water that runs even from the washbasin taps. The catch: the large baths are only partly free-flowing, chlorinated and two floors underground, and the building shows its age
- Destination Dining
Area photoKamisuwaClassic
Kamisuwa Onsen, Suwa, Nagano — on the lakeshore road facing Lake Suwa, an 8-minute walk from Kami-Suwa Station, about two hours from Shinjuku by limited express
9 sources
Suwa Bettei Suhaku
信州上諏訪温泉 諏訪別邸 朱白
A lakefront onsen inn with two different springs — one rust-brown, one clear — in rooftop baths over Lake Suwa, renovated in 2025 with six lake-facing rooms that have their own baths; the shared baths are recirculated, and the other rooms vary a lot
- Easy From Tokyo
MinakamiValue
Fujiwara, Minakami, Gunma — a lone inn on the Takaragawa stream at the top of the Tone River valley, about 40 minutes by the inn's shuttle from Jomo-Kogen shinkansen station
9 sources
Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku
宝川温泉 汪泉閣
470 tatami of riverside open-air baths, where everyone wears the inn's bathing robe — Japan's most spectacular mixed bathing at a bargain price, if you can live with an old building, day-trip crowds and summer horseflies
- Secluded Retreats
Area photoTakayamaPremium
Honbo-machi, Takayama, Gifu — a quiet residential area about 2.3km west of JR Takayama Station (around 8 minutes by the inn's free shuttle) and 10 minutes' drive from the old town
9 sources
Hidatei Hanaougi
飛騨亭 花扇
Takayama's crowd-pleaser: a wood-built, tatami-floored inn with its own silky spring piped into most rooms' open-air baths, one attendant from arrival to farewell and Hida-beef kaiseki in private dining rooms — though the water is recirculated and heated, and the cheapest rooms have no onsen at all
Read the ConsensusArea photoTakayamaClassic
Hon-machi, Takayama, Gifu — at the foot of the red Nakabashi bridge on the Miyagawa river, across the road from its sister inn Kachoan; a minute's walk from Takayama Jinya and the Jinya morning market, three minutes from the old merchant streets and about 10 minutes' walk (or a free three-minute pickup) from JR Takayama Station
10 sources
Honjin Hiranoya Kofukan
飛騨高山 本陣平野屋 光風館
Kachoan's larger, cheaper sister by the red Nakabashi bridge: a taiko drum to greet you, names remembered and Hida-beef kaiseki in private dining rooms — but the rooms are plain, none of the in-room baths is described as onsen, and women get no open-air bath
Read the ConsensusArea photoTakayamaClassic
Shiroyama, Takayama, Gifu — on the hill below Shiroyama Park, where Takayama Castle once stood, three minutes' walk down a steep slope to the old town and about 15 minutes' walk (or a free shuttle) from JR Takayama Station
9 sources
Hida Takayama Onsen Hoshokaku
飛騨高山温泉 宝生閣
A five-storey hilltop inn above Takayama's old town, loved for warm, old-school service and huge Hida-beef dinners — but only the shared outdoor rock baths use (heated, recirculated) hot-spring water, and the in-room open-air baths are not onsen
Read the ConsensusPhoto credits: The Arayu spring at Yumura Onsen, Hyogo · KishujiRapid / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Kamisuwa Onsen, Suwa, Nagano · 663highland / CC BY 2.5 / Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku in winter, Minakami · kallerna / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Sanmachi Suji old town, Takayama, Gifu · Ankur P from Pune, India / CC BY 2.0
Yumura Onsen Tomiya
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