Yufuin Tamanoyu
由布院 玉の湯
Area photo — not the ryokan itself · Mount Yufu from Yufuin Station · Kitayama / CC BY-SA 4.0
Sixteen cottages in a woodland garden, each with its own free-flowing hinoki bath, and a breakfast soup people call Japan's best — but dinner splits opinion
Tamanoyu began in 1953 as a retreat for a Zen temple and is one of the inns that made Yufuin famous. Its sixteen rooms are cottages and small wings scattered through a deliberately wild woodland garden, linked by roofed paths, and every one has a wooden bath filled with free-flowing spring water — 'available 24 hours, which is wonderful', as one guest put it. On Japan's leading luxury booking site it averages 4.73 across 41 reviews, with baths and service at 4.80. The quieter pleasures are what regulars love: the lounge with its fireplace and gramophone, the tea room and bar named after the writer C.W. Nicol, and above all the Western breakfast, whose cress and vegetable soup and Yufuin ham one blogger called the best breakfast in Japan. Food is also where the complaints are. Dinner is unshowy country cooking built around a hotpot or charcoal-grilled beef you choose in advance, and it scores lowest (4.51); one 2023 family waited 30 minutes for their hotpot in a three-hour dinner without an apology, a 2026 guest found it 'far too meagre' for the price, and others mention casual service, an ageing building and firm Airweave beds. Expect around ¥77,500 for two with breakfast only.
Room Selection Guide
What the guests who stayed here actually recommendRecommended
The standalone cottages (e.g. Koji 柑子)
Koji is a single-storey cottage at the back of the garden with two 10-tatami rooms; a July 2024 guest loved its 24-hour free-flowing hinoki bath (it runs hot — add water). Rooms range from 60㎡ to 140㎡, and several, including Yamabuki, Hiwa, Murasaki and Sakura, were renovated in 2023–2024.
Suhau (すはう), Kuwa (桑) and Murasaki (むらさき)
Suhau is the only cottage with two Western-style rooms (a repeat guest spent New Year's Eve 2025 there with underfloor heating). Kuwa was C.W. Nicol's regular room, and Murasaki is the inn's top-grade room.
Request To Avoid
Any room, if you sleep badly on firm beds
Rooms use Airweave mattresses, and guests in 2024 and 2026 found the bed and pillow firm or not very comfortable. A 2026 guest also missed a comfortable sofa, and some rooms show their age.
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Dining Deep Dive
Breakfast Consensus
4.7/5Choose Western: the special vegetable soup with watercress (refills allowed), fromage blanc, Yufuin roast ham and toast or French toast. 'The Western breakfast may be the right answer at Tamanoyu,' wrote one guest.
Spend the afternoon in Nicol's lounge (tea room 13:00–17:00, guests only from 17:00): its apple pie is limited to about a dozen a day. Check-in is at 14:00 and check-out not until 12:00, so you get a long stay.
Dinner Insights
3.8/5Dinner is mountain-village cooking served at the inn's restaurant, Budoya, or a private dining room — not in your room (except a ¥7,200 seasonal bento). You choose a main in advance: charcoal-grilled wagyu, local shamo chicken hotpot, soft-shell turtle hotpot, watercress and duck hotpot, or Himeshima prawn shabu-shabu. Recent guests praised delicate simmered dishes, but critics call it 'unshowy country cooking', say the menu hasn't changed in years, and report slow service: in November 2023 dinner took three hours with a 30-minute wait for the hotpot, and in 2026 one guest found it 'far too meagre' for an inn of this reputation.
Onsen & Wellness Realities
A simple, weakly alkaline spring (the inn gives pH 8.2), colourless. The in-room baths are 100% free-flowing; the shared baths are listed on one booking site as having water added, and a blogger photographed a notice saying they are filtered and chlorinated.
Every room has its own wooden bath with free-flowing spring water, so most guests barely use the shared baths — one found them almost empty. The shared baths (separate for men and women, each with an indoor and an open-air tub looking towards Mount Yufu) are open 6:00–10:00 and 15:00–23:00.
No policy stated in any source we read. With a private onsen bath in every room, you never need to share.
Local Warnings & Nuances
- 01
Prices seen on a Japanese booking site for two: from ¥77,500 with breakfast only, and from ¥93,340 with the in-room bento dinner. The chef's dinner course is ¥22,000 per person. A family of three paid about ¥150,000 with two meals in 2023.
- 02
Pre-school children cannot stay in some rooms (Kihada, Suhau, Hiwa, Kuwa and Kuhina).
- 03
It's about 15 minutes on foot or 3 minutes by taxi from JR Yufuin Station; there is no shuttle, and parking is free.
- 04
The inn is not step-free throughout: Japanese booking sites mark it as not barrier-free, although the Hiwa room's bath has a handrail and slope.
- 05
Cancellation fees start 14 days before arrival (10%), rising to 100% on the day.
Sources
The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on
- 私の温泉宿100選*****雨の由布院温泉・玉の湯(大分県) (4travel.jp, by yakkunn)
- 2026年1月 由布院の温泉旅館と高崎山のお猿さんとふぐを愉しむ大分「由布院 玉の湯」 (4travel.jp, by ニーコ)
- 年末年始!くつろぎステイの由布院!①「由布院 玉の湯」でのんびり編 (4travel.jp, by taroトラベル)
- 2023.11 別府~由布院旅行4 「玉の湯」 (紀子の部屋・New)
- 「由布院玉の湯」(九州/由布院温泉) (いい旅館訪問記)
- 由布院玉の湯に泊まってきた。宿泊前に知りたかった情報 (転勤族のバイブル)
- 由布院 玉の湯 クチコミ (一休.com)
- 由布院 玉の湯 (公式サイト)
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Photo credits: Mount Yufu from Yufuin Station · Kitayama / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Hiiragiya — the frontage on Anekoji-dori, Kyoto · Mariemon / CC BY 3.0
Yufuin Tamanoyu
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