Dogo's oldest inn — Soseki and Shiki wrote haiku here — with a 1,500-tsubo firefly garden and some of Shikoku's best-rated breakfasts, in a big, modern-looking building
Funaya traces its roots to around 1627 and has one of the richest guest books in Japan: Natsume Soseki stayed in 1895 and left a haiku now carved at the entrance, Masaoka Shiki wrote one by the garden, and emperors and imperial family members have stayed repeatedly since 1950. Don't expect an old wooden inn, though — today it is a 58-room building renovated in 1993 that one blogger said looks like an apartment block from outside. Inside is where it shines. Japanese guests rate it extremely highly — 4.9 across 1,546 reviews on one major site, with a perfect 5.0 for breakfast, and 4.73 across more than 2,000 on another — for its service, its food and its 1,500-tsubo garden with a natural stream, fireflies in early summer and riverside dining from spring to autumn. Dinner is Ehime kaiseki with sea bream, Iyo beef and a sea-bream rice finale (or French if you prefer). The criticisms are about the building and consistency: ageing fittings (the lobby and shop were renovated in January 2026; the rooms were not), creaky floors, patchy Wi-Fi, a small open-air bath and water that some found chlorinated, slow in-room dining, occasional missing send-offs, and one family moved into a cramped room they'd never seen online. Rack rates run from about ¥25,300 to ¥80,300 per person with two meals.
Latest updates
What newer Japanese stay reports, posts and official notices have added since this review was written
The lobby and shop were renovated in January 2026 and the bath-side massage chairs replaced, according to the inn's blog; the guest rooms were not part of that work. The official calendar shows the restaurant's Monday/Tuesday closure applies to lunch only. Recent reviews keep praising free room upgrades and the French dinner, while a few onsen fans find the baths small.
Room Selection Guide
What the guests who stayed here actually recommendRecommended
Haiku Lounge Suites (South Wing 7F)
Only four rooms on the floor, so it's quiet, each 55–94㎡ with a hinoki bath of Dogo spring water and Simmons beds; guests in Tsuki-no-Miyako, Hanamakura and Nanakusa loved them, and repeat guests book them every year. Note that one 2022 guest found the in-room bath couldn't be used late at night, and a 2026 guest felt the service didn't match the price.
Club Floor and garden-view Japanese rooms
Club Floor rooms on the 7th and 8th floors have a hinoki in-room onsen bath, and dinner is served in your room. Standard Japanese rooms facing the garden are the value choice; a 2023 guest could see Matsuyama Castle from theirs.
Request To Avoid
Converted and unlisted rooms
A 2025 guest found a tatami room converted with beds awkward (kettle in the corridor, small TV), and a family of four in 2024 was put in a cramped, business-hotel-like room they hadn't seen anywhere online. Confirm the exact room type when booking, especially for groups of three or more — one guest ended up sleeping on half an L-shaped sofa.
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Dining Deep Dive
Breakfast Consensus
4.8/5A choice of Japanese (hot jakoten fish cake, handmade tofu, dashimaki) or Western — rated a perfect 5.0 on one major site. One guest only wished it came with a garden view.
Visit between April and late October for riverside dining in the garden, and early summer for the fireflies; the garden is lit up at night. The Dogo Onsen Honkan public bathhouse is a 3–5 minute walk.
Dinner Insights
4.5/5Separate Japanese and Western head chefs. Japanese kaiseki runs through sashimi with sea bream, simmered fish, Iyo beef steak and hamo to tai-meshi (sea-bream rice) — which one guest found was Hojo-style rather than the southern Ehime style they hoped for — and French dinners are available. Dinner is in your room for suites, the Club Floor and some Japanese rooms, otherwise at the Aoigoke restaurant (tables only). Complaints: portions so large guests 'gave up by the fish course', a 2026 verdict of 'old-fashioned, quantity over quality', slow in-room service (a 20-minute wait for drinks in 2022), and the restaurant closes for lunch on Mondays and Tuesdays (dinner still runs).
Onsen & Wellness Realities
Alkaline simple spring (46.8°C, pH 9.1), 'slightly silky' according to guests. The inn describes it as 100% source water, but a Japanese booking site lists the baths as recirculated, and an onsen writer found the chlorine smell strong.
Two large baths, Hinoki-yu and Mikage-yu, each with an open-air bath and sauna; they swap between men and women. Guests find the open-air bath small, one noted a 94°C sauna with no cold plunge, and a 2022 reviewer smelled cigarettes in the open-air bath (the building has been non-smoking since 2019). There's a free foot bath (12:00–20:30).
No policy stated on the official or booking sites — ask the inn. Suites and Club Floor rooms with an in-room onsen bath avoid the shared baths.
Local Warnings & Nuances
- 01
Check-in 15:00–19:30 with dinner (until midnight without), check-out 10:00. Parking ¥880 a night.
- 02
Rack rates per adult with two meals: from about ¥25,300 (twin) to ¥80,300 (Royal Suite). A 2021 couple paid ¥83,600 for two.
- 03
Children: the Royal Suite takes 12 and over and the Ai art room 15 and over; other rooms have child rates.
- 04
There are 14 steps between the rooms and the baths/dining room, with a wheelchair lift, and wheelchairs can be borrowed.
- 05
Recent small complaints: a sewer-like smell at a washbasin, a dirty teacup, Wi-Fi drops in the South Wing, and noisy fellow guests.
Before your stay
Souvenirs from Dogo Onsen and practical help for your trip.
Dogo Onsen souvenirs on Rakuten
Rakuten prices as of Oct 18, 2026 — check the shop for current price and stock. Supported by Rakuten Developers Rakuten links are affiliate links: we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Things to do nearby
Dogo Onsen: sights, experiences and seasonal events from Trip Gacha, our sister site.
Mozu Miniature Exhibition 2 in Matsuyama
See on Trip GachaRiusuke Fukahori Goldfish Art Exhibition in Matsuyama
See on Trip GachaDogo Onsen, Japan's Oldest Hot Spring
See on Trip GachaMatsuyama Castle & Ropeway
See on Trip GachaPhoto credits
- Mozu Miniature Exhibition 2 in Matsuyama: Jyo81 (ja: User) / CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
- Riusuke Fukahori Goldfish Art Exhibition in Matsuyama: Jyo81 (ja: User) / CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
Sources
The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on
- (宿泊記)老舗の暖簾をくぐってみよう 道後温泉ふなや・俳句ラウンジスイート月の都 (4travel.jp)
- 四国旅行・4〜5日目・愛媛(道後温泉) (Black Coffee Break)
- 道後温泉ふなや/俳句ラウンジスイート (食べることは生きること♪)
- 道後温泉ふなや♡俳句ラウンジスイート七艸 (mary♡blog)
- 伊予安芸紀行 ~道後温泉編~ (色即是空)
- 道後温泉「ふなや」さん (Ameba Blog)
- 道後一の老舗旅館 道後温泉ふなや宿泊記 (植竹深雪)
- 道後温泉 ふなや クチコミ (一休.com)
- 道後温泉 ふなや お客さまの声 (楽天トラベル)
- 道後温泉 ふなや クチコミ (じゃらんnet)
- 道後温泉 ふなや (公式サイト)
- ふなや 公式ブログ お知らせ(ロビー・売店リニューアル 2026-01)
- 春の愛媛、2泊の旅 ~道後温泉周辺をふらふらと~ (4travel, 2025-05)
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Read the guidePhoto credits
- Dogo Funaya — the entrance, Dogo Onsen · CT-May / CC0
- Pokémon Store, First Avenue Tokyo Station · 電車(新幹線)でゴー! / CC0
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Okutsu OnsenPremium
Okutsu Onsen, Kagamino, Okayama — a 1927 inn on the Yoshii river in the hills of northern Okayama, about 100 minutes by car from Okayama Station
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Okutsuso
名泉鍵湯 奥津荘
The 'locked bath' where alkaline water bubbles up through the granite riverbed beneath you — a registered-heritage inn of just ten rooms, with a new modern kitchen and prices that have climbed fast
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Shima OnsenValue
Shima Onsen, Nakanojo, Gunma — beside the red bridge at the top of the old onsen village
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Sekizenkan
積善館
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Shibu OnsenClassic
Shibu Onsen, Yamanouchi, Nagano — on the narrow main street, about 10 minutes by bus from Yudanaka Station
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Kanaguya
歴史の宿 金具屋
The four-storey 1936 wooden fantasy that crowds come to photograph at night — eight baths from four private springs, a nightly building tour, and a lot of stairs
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Shibu Onsen, Yamanouchi, Nagano — in the middle of the stone-paved hot-spring street, across from Kanaguya and steps from the No. 9 Ōyu public bath; 8 minutes by the inn's shuttle from Yudanaka Station
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Shibu Onsen Kokuya
渋温泉 古久屋
A 400-year-old wooden inn sitting on its own springs, where all eight baths — including a room of six hinoki tubs, one per spring — are booked privately for free; expect stairs and no lift, a maze of corridors and scalding water
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Photo credits: Dogo Onsen Honkan at dusk, Matsuyama · Japanexperterna.se / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Yamatoya Honten, Dogo Onsen · CT-May / CC0 / Okutsuso — the Tōwarō building, Okutsu Onsen · Phronimoi / CC BY-SA 3.0 / Sekizenkan — the Honkan and the red Keiun Bridge, Shima Onsen · Kentaro Ohno / CC BY 2.0 / Kanaguya — the Saigetsu-ro building at night, Shibu Onsen · Alexkom000 / CC BY 4.0 / Shibu Onsen at dusk, Yamanouchi, Nagano · Totti / CC BY-SA 4.0
Dogo Funaya
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