OKU
Shuzenji 874-1, Izu, Shizuoka — on the Katsura River at the entrance to Shuzenji Onsen, right opposite the Shuzenji Onsen bus terminus (about 8 minutes by bus from Shuzenji Station, which is about 30 minutes from Mishima on the Izu-Hakone Railway) and about 35 minutes by car from Numazu IC

Yukairo Kikuya (Kyoritsu Resort)

湯回廊 菊屋(共立リゾート)

4.4/5Japanese Guest ConsensusAggregated from 10 Japanese guest blogs and stay reportsSources checked Oct 13, 2026

Area photo — not the ryokan itself · Shuzenji Onsen, Izu · 663highland / CC BY-SA 4.0

Japanese Guest Consensus

The 400-year-old Shuzenji inn where Natsume Sōseki convalesced, now a Kyoritsu Resort of long corridors, four free private baths and an almost all-inclusive drinks list — loved for its atmosphere and beef stew, but the main baths are recirculated, the private baths are often taken and the dinner gets mixed reviews

Kikuya claims about 400 years of history, and the main building still keeps the room where the novelist Natsume Sōseki stayed to recover from illness (the Ume-no-ma, now known as the Sōseki Room). Kyoritsu Resort has run it as Yukairo Kikuya for 20 years: buildings from different eras, from Meiji to Reiwa, are linked by long corridors around a garden pond, and in 2021 it added the river-side Mizu no Kataribe annexe (18 small rooms with onsen tubs, reached by a suspension bridge) and the Kaze no Kataribe wing (20 rooms with shower only). Evidence is strong: Japanese guests rate it 4.5 across 3,189 Jalan reviews, 4.48 across 1,708 on Rakuten Travel and 4.66 across 111 on Ikyu, and five independent stay write-ups from 2022 to 2025 agree on the highlights. Guests love wandering the corridors, the four free private baths you can use any time, the free beer, highball and sour servers, ice cream, Shizuoka oden and late-night ramen, and the inn's signature beef stew. The catches: the large indoor bath and garden open-air bath are diluted, heated and recirculated (only the private baths and the detached rooms' tubs are free-flowing); the private baths are often occupied; dinner is served in two fixed sittings; several long-time repeat guests in 2026 said the food and service had slipped; and most of the old main building has been closed for repairs since early 2026. Two-meal rates listed on Jalan in October 2026 run from ¥57,820 to ¥95,040 for two.

Overall Score4.4/5
Cuisine
4.3
Onsen Privacy
4.1
Tranquility
3.9
Hospitality
4.3

Room Selection Guide

Recommended

  • Hanare Sōan detached rooms (離れ 草庵, 53㎡) and the Kura maisonette (蔵, 104㎡)

    The only rooms with a free-flowing onsen bath: eight 53㎡ rooms in a large garden, each with a terrace and an open-air tub of hinoki or stone, plus Kura, a converted old Western-style building for 2–6 guests with beds on two floors (one booking a day). A December 2025 4travel blogger in a Sōan room found the tub already full, the temperature just right, and bamboo and river sounds outside; a March 2023 Ameba blogger in Kura found the bath big enough for the whole family. An Ikyu reviewer warned that the free-flowing water is quite hot, so add water and stir it first. Jalan listed two-meal rates from ¥77,620 for two in Sōan and ¥95,040 for Kura in October 2026; a May 2025 Rakuten reviewer paid about ¥50,000 per person for Kura and gave the stay one star, mainly for service. In winter you walk outside to reach the main building.

  • Bettei Mizu no Kataribe river-side rooms (別邸 水の語り部, 20–40㎡)

    The 2021 annexe across the Katsura River, reached by a red suspension bridge used only by its guests: Japanese rooms with low twin beds on tatami and a semi-open-air hinoki tub fed with onsen water, and a self-service bar with beer and soft drinks. It is the 2026 reviewers' favourite: a May 2026 Jalan regular, who always books it, enjoyed the sound of the river, and a May 2026 guest saw fireflies from the room. The tub fills with very hot water that is not free-flowing: one June 2026 guest filled it and waited two hours, and a January 2022 blogger called it 'extremely hot'. One blogger paid ¥37,200 for two with two meals (October 2023, 27㎡ room with no view); Jalan listed ¥57,820–69,700 for two in October 2026. There are no children in this wing.

Request To Avoid

  • Kaze no Kataribe garden-side twins (新館 風の語り部, 29㎡) and some Mizu no Kataribe rooms, for light sleepers

    Kaze no Kataribe rooms are the cheapest (from ¥57,820 for two with meals on Jalan, October 2026) and have a terrace and their own lounge, but no bathtub, only a shower booth, so you rely on the shared and private baths. In Mizu no Kataribe, a May 2026 guest in a ground-floor room could hear footsteps from the floor above, bath taps, stairs and corridor talk, and a 2023 blogger noted that rooms 106–108 open onto a roofed but open-air corridor that is likely cold in winter, and met a cricket there at night (each room has an insect kit). The bridge to the main building closes from 1:30 to 4:30, and you need your room key to pass between the buildings. Main-building rooms (54㎡, in-room bath is ordinary heated water, not onsen) are mostly off sale: only three reopened on 20 April 2026, and the Sōseki Room is not sold.

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Dining Deep Dive

Breakfast Consensus

4.5/5

You choose a Japanese set or a Western set the evening before (some periods are Japanese only), served in the dining room between 7:30 and 10:00. The Japanese set is many small dishes with miso soup full of clams and a large, plump dried horse-mackerel; the Western set comes with three kinds of bread and, in September 2026, a hearty pot-au-feu, and some repeat guests always choose it. Breakfast scores 4.6 on Jalan and 4.55 on Rakuten, higher than dinner. There is no room service apart from drinks.

The four private baths are free and can't be booked: flip the sign at the door to 'in use', lock it and keep to about 40 minutes. Bloggers and 2026 reviewers say they are often all taken in the evening, so try them in the late afternoon, late at night or early in the morning (they are open 24 hours). Iwato-no-yu is the hottest, Kodai-no-yu has a lie-down tub, and Tsuki and Hoshi are the open-air ones. Arrive for the free Shizuoka oden served before dinner (about 18:00) if you have the late sitting.

Dinner Insights

4.3/5

A monthly-changing kaiseki ('shukō kaiseki') served at tables in the Shuzenji-bayashi and Shūseikaku dining rooms, never in your room. You choose your own main dish (the inn's beef stew, spice-butter kinmedai or saikyō-miso black cod in the sample menu) and rice course; the beef stew is the dish almost every guest and blogger singles out, and a sakura-shrimp kakiage appears regularly. There are two fixed sittings, 17:30 or 19:45, assigned at check-in on a first-come basis; a March 2023 family and a November 2025 guest were only offered the late slot, and some private tables exist but can't be reserved. Most 2026 guests found it tasty and generous, though older guests found it too much. Long-time repeat guests were less happy in 2026: one (August) said the menu barely changes, the ayu rice had almost no ayu and drinks were mixed up; another, staying in April, felt the quality had fallen; and an April guest who had asked in advance for no raw fish was served sashimi anyway and told to cook it in the hotpot. A low-allergen menu (28 allergens removed) is available if you ask at least two days ahead.

Onsen & Wellness Realities

Water Type

Alkaline simple spring (Shuzenji Onsen). The inn and Jalan state that the large indoor bath and the garden open-air bath have added water, heating and recirculation with filtration. The four private baths and the Sōan and Kura open-air tubs are described as 100% source water flowing through (源泉かけ流し), with water added to cool it. Mizu no Kataribe tubs are filled with onsen water on demand rather than flowing, and the main-building rooms' tubs use ordinary heated water. The source is very hot, so in-room baths need cooling.

Privacy & Atmosphere

Two separate-sex public baths linked by the corridors: Kiku-buro, a large indoor bath in the basement facing the Katsura River, where men's and women's sides swap, and Suzaku-no-yu, a garden open-air bath. Both are open 15:00–1:00 and 5:00–10:00. A 2024 blogger found the open-air bath had only about two washing places, while Kiku-buro was quiet in the evening and morning. Then there are the four free private baths, open 24 hours: Reimei-no-yu 'Tsuki' (round hinoki tub) and 'Hoshi' (open-air, forest view), Kodai-no-yu (lie-down tub) and Iwato-no-yu (the hottest). There is no sauna. Children aged seven and over may not use the other sex's bath, and children in nappies may not use the large baths.

Tattoo Policy

No policy found — contact the inn.

Local Warnings & Nuances

  1. 01

    The old main building is being refitted: work began in early 2026, and since 20 April 2026 only three main-building rooms are on sale, alongside Sōan, Mizu no Kataribe and Kaze no Kataribe. The dining rooms, large baths and private baths are open as usual, but check what is being worked on when you book.

  2. 02

    Much of the appeal is the free extras: beer, highball and lemon-sour servers and soft drinks (one August 2026 Ikyu guest said alcohol stops at 21:30), ice lollies after the bath, coffee and sweets in the Sōseki-no-An lounge 24 hours a day, Shizuoka oden before dinner and half-size 'yonaki soba' ramen from 22:00 to 23:00. A May 2026 guest felt the fixed dinner times made it hard to use the oden, drinks and ramen as well.

  3. 03

    Check-in from 15:00 (16:00 on some plans, last check-in 22:00), check-out 11:00, and extra hours cost ¥3,000 each. There's no shuttle: the Shuzenji Onsen bus stop is just across the road. 65 free parking spaces, but you park yourself, and on busy days you may be sent to a second lot two or three minutes' walk away. Shuzenji temple, the Bamboo Grove Path and Tokko-no-yu are a few minutes' walk.

  4. 04

    Service is uneven. Most 2025–26 reviews praise friendly young staff, including one who gave a guest an unprompted tour of the corridors, but low-scoring Rakuten reviews from 2023 to 2025 describe a slow check-in, no guidance to the room and staff who couldn't answer questions. In May 2026 a guest was given the wrong room key (the inn apologised and offered free drinks at dinner). Several repeat guests say standards have slipped in recent years.

  5. 05

    In May 2026 the inn warned that some guests who booked through Booking.com had received WhatsApp and other messages, pretending to confirm their booking, that asked for card details and linked to phishing sites. Don't click such links, and contact the inn directly.

Sources

The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on

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Photo credits: Shuzenji Onsen, Izu · 663highland / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Arai Ryokan — the entrance, Shuzenji · Batholith / Public domain