Nasu Kogen no Yado Sansuikaku
那須高原の宿 山水閣
Area photo — not the ryokan itself · Shika-no-yu bathhouse, Nasu-Yumoto, Tochigi · Miyuki Meinaka / CC BY-SA 4.0
A 13-room early-Shōwa wooden inn in the forest by the Nasu Imperial Villa, loved for its vintage-chair lounges, wagyu soy-milk shabu-shabu and attentive staff — but every bath, including the five in-room ones, is recirculated, there's no lift and no outdoor public bath
Sansuikaku is a 13-room inn in an early-Shōwa wooden building, set in a patch of forest near the Nasu Imperial Villa where trees may not be felled; a 2023 blogger was told the current owner is the sixth generation. Inside, it's been carefully renovated: a lobby and salons furnished with Japanese and Western design chairs, free coffee from 8:00 to 22:00 and a home-made yuzu liqueur from 15:00 to 18:00, and a sister inn, Nasu Bettei Kai, on the same grounds. Japanese guests rate it 4.64 across 80 reviews on one leading site (food 4.83, baths 4.43), 4.63 across 241 on another and 4.6 across 32 on a third. Bloggers who stayed in 2023, 2024 and 2025 describe a 'can't-go-wrong' inn: polished service, Nasu wagyu and pork in soy-milk shabu-shabu, a famously firm yuzu pudding, an inari snack left in the room at night, and big rooms with green views. Know what you're getting with the water: it's the Ōmaru Onsen simple spring — not the Shika-no-yu source of central Yumoto — and the inn states that the public, private and in-room baths are all recirculated and filtered, with water or heat added. The two public baths are small indoor tubs with no outdoor bath, and there's no lift in the three-storey building. In 2026 guests also mentioned trainee staff who fumbled dinner service, two-hour dinners, morning baths too hot to sit in, cramped changing rooms, cold in early spring and the odd fly or ants. Two-meal rates start at about ¥24,000–46,000 per person, depending on the room.
Room Selection Guide
What the guests who stayed here actually recommendRecommended
Genpei (源平), the 86.6㎡ maisonette with the inn's largest in-room bath
Renovated in March 2022: a living room and tatami bedroom with twin beds upstairs, and downstairs a bathroom walled in local Ashino stone with a tub big enough for two adults to stretch out, with windows on two sides that open for a semi-outdoor feel. A June 2023 blogger soaked 'more times than I could count' and paid ¥56,715 alone on a pre-holiday night. No children. A September 2026 guest found a fly in the room on arrival and a musty smell on the stairs down to the bath.
Suzaku (朱雀), Aogiri (梧桐) and Shinonome (東雲) — the other rooms with baths (56–68.6㎡)
Each has a Japanese room, a bedroom and a spring-water bath behind lattice doors that slide open to the trees; Suzaku and Shinonome add a small terrace. A spring 2023 couple in Aogiri could see the greenery from their futons, and several 2026 guests found Suzaku very spacious. Fukube (瓢, 58.7㎡, adults only) is the only room with a bath that's step-free to the public baths and dining room. Among rooms without a bath, Nishikigi (錦木, 74.4㎡) has two eight-mat rooms each with an engawa over the courtyard garden and two toilets — 'too big for two', a Golden Week 2025 guest wrote.
Request To Avoid
Third-floor rooms without a bath, and booking-site 'open-air' labels
Most rooms are on the third floor and there's no lift. The cheapest rooms, Ochiho (29.5㎡) and Gan (35.4㎡), are compact, and a March 2026 guest in Sagiri found the room cold and the bed mattress too firm. One booking site describes rooms with 'free-flowing open-air baths', but the official site says the in-room baths are semi-open, recirculated and filtered. Six of the 13 rooms don't take children.
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Dining Deep Dive
Breakfast Consensus
4.4/5A Japanese set in the Mori-no-Iori dining room (8:00–9:30): a well-known Ibaraki mackerel, Nikkō yuba, an onsen egg or dashimaki, Nasu vegetable salad and rice in a wooden tub — widely praised, though one August 2026 guest who'd ordered dashimaki was served six raw eggs for three people
Book the private baths as soon as you arrive — on one July 2026 afternoon nearly every slot was gone by 16:00. The salon serves free coffee and, from 15:00 to 18:00, a home-made yuzu liqueur; Lounge 206 is a bar open 21:00–24:00. Wi-Fi is in the lobby and lounge (the facility page says not in rooms). Staying guests can take the route bus from Nasu-Shiobara for ¥500 each way (once a day, reserve with the inn).
Dinner Insights
4.4/5Yamazato kaiseki in semi-private rooms in Mori-no-Iori at 18:00, 18:30 or 19:00 — the early slot fills. Bloggers in 2023 single out the Nasu Kuroge wagyu and pork soy-milk shabu-shabu, and in 2026 reviewers praise ayu dishes, a wagyu cutlet and the yuzu pudding; autumn 2026 has a matsutake plan. Drink pairings cost ¥6,000 or ¥11,000 per person (Golden Week 2025). Critics found sake prices high, portions light for big eaters, service pacing slow (two hours in June 2026), neighbours audible through the partitions, and trainee servers who forgot tableware or didn't know the dishes.
Onsen & Wellness Realities
Ōmaru Onsen simple spring, 60.8°C at source, near-neutral, listed with a faint sulphur smell — not the Shika-no-yu source of central Yumoto; a 2023 blogger was told it's the same spring type as the Imperial Villa's. The official site states the men's, women's, private and in-room baths are all recirculated and filtered, with water or heat added. 2023 bloggers saw the tubs overflowing and noticed little chlorine; a June 2026 guest noted no overflow.
Two small hinoki indoor baths, open 24 hours and swapped between men and women at midnight (closed overnight on cleaning nights); one side has a hot and a cooler tub. There's no outdoor public bath, and the windows face a stone wall. Two private baths, Goyō (¥3,300, up to six people) and Uro (¥2,200, up to four), run in 60-minute slots from 13:00 to 9:30. 2026 complaints: water too hot in the morning, cramped changing rooms and a wait on the women's side; with so few rooms, others often had the bath to themselves.
No policy found on the official site or Japanese booking sites — contact the inn. Five rooms and two private baths offer bathing without other guests.
Local Warnings & Nuances
- 01
Check-in 15:00–18:00 (call if arriving after 17:00), usually done in your room; check-out 10:30 per the official site (one booking site says 10:00). From 1 October 2026 Nasu town adds an accommodation tax of ¥100–3,000 per adult per night, paid at the inn.
- 02
There's no lift: entrance, baths and dining are on the second floor, most rooms on the third, and the private baths on the first. Fukube is the room recommended for anyone unsteady on stairs.
- 03
Children: under-4s pay a ¥2,200 entry fee, 4–5-year-olds 50% and 6–12-year-olds 70%; Genpei, Fukube, Nishikigi, Sagiri, Kyokusui and Ochiho are adults-only.
- 04
Cancellation: 20% from 5 days before, 30% at 3 days, 50% at 2 days, 70% the day before, 100% on the day.
- 05
It's an old wooden building in the forest: 2026 guests mentioned cold in March, flies and ants, a musty smell in one room and, on several stays, trainee staff — though cleanliness scores remain high.
Sources
The real blog posts and stay reports this article draws on
- 那須高原の宿 山水閣(2023.6)①チェックイン・パブリックスペース (思い出に残る温泉旅館〜おこもり滞在記〜)
- 那須高原の宿 山水閣(那須高原温泉~栃木県)① (すまりんの てくてく ふたり旅)
- 【GWグルメ旅】Day10-5 山水閣 錦木のお部屋 (東京Days 旅とグルメと時々仕事)
- 8/27(火)〜栃木旅 山水閣 食事 (アメブロ)
- 日帰り山歩き番外編 那須高原@栃木県 (Spica2222☆叱らないチコちゃん)
- 那須高原の宿 山水閣 - クチコミ・評判 (一休.com)
- 那須高原の宿 山水閣のクチコミ・評判 (じゃらんnet)
- 那須高原の宿 山水閣 クチコミ・お客さまの声 (楽天トラベル)
- 【公式】那須高原の宿 山水閣
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Photo credits: Hiiragiya — the frontage on Anekoji-dori, Kyoto · Mariemon / CC BY 3.0 / Mukaitaki in the snow, Higashiyama Onsen, Aizu-Wakamatsu · Fumihiko Ueno / CC BY 3.0 / Mikiya — the wooden main building, Kinosaki · Ippukucho / CC BY 3.0
Nasu Kogen no Yado Sansuikaku
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